PAGE 7: MY AGRA MEMORIES



                                                             MY AGRA MEMORIES                  

                                                    
Agra, the enigmatic city of GRAND TAJ MAHAL for the world, but the monument not so much of an attraction for us because of our frequent visits and easy access, reminds me of a famous and often recited couplet rendered by poor people:
EK SHANSHAH NE BANWA KE HASEEN TAJMAHAL
HUM GAREEBON KI MUHABBAT KA UDAYA HAI MAZAK! (By getting the majestic Taj Mahal built by one Emperor, Shah Jahan in the memory of his darling wife Mumtaz Mahal, he has ridiculed the love of we poor people!). I am also reminded of a very famous husband wife joke related to this monument:
Wife to husband: Darling when I die will you also get a Taj Mahal built in my memory? Husband: Oh yes darling, I purchased land for it long ago, but you are the one delaying the project!
My parents with their meagre means, had big dreams for me and thus got me admitted in the best school of Agra, the majestic, sprawling, grand, renowned St. Patrick's Convent for girls,next to St Peters for boys. I would be given 4 annas for a cycle rickshaw ride to school. During British rule, and the first decade of independence (the period of my initial school days), the rupee was subdivided into 16 annas. Each anna was subdivided into either 4 paisas, or 12 pies. So One rupee was equal to 16 Annas, 64 Paises of 192 Pies. In 1957 (five years after my birth), decimalisation occurred and the rupee was divided into 100 Naye Paise (Hindi/Urdu for new paisas). After a few years, the initial "Naye" was dropped. During my school ride, I would travel from Nigam Saheb Ka Makan (House of Mr Nigam, our landlord, in a suburb known as Gandhi Nagar before we shifted in our own hose in nearby suburbVijay Nagar) via refreshingly beautiful and huge Paliwal Park (named after a very famous gentleman of Agra belonging to our Paliwal community).  This mighty community of handful of families from Rajasthan has the most interesting history and bewitching account!
Drive 18 km west of Jaisalmer (a known princely city of the State of Rajasthan) and you will come upon the village of Kuldhara ( embodiment of the architectural wonder in itself). Once a prosperous settlement of the Paliwal Brahmins, all the residents of Kuldhara and 83 nearby villages vanished suddenly one night in 1825, having lived there since 1291. In all likelihood they set up base somewhere beyond Jodhpur but no one has ever been sure.
The Paliwals made their fortune by the sheer brilliance of their business and agricultural acumen. They knew the art of growing a water intensive crop like wheat in the Thar desert; they could identify areas with gypsum rock layers running under the ground surface to ensure water was retained for the crops. The rulers depended on the Paliwals for much of their tax revenues.
What made them want to abandon everything overnight? The Prime Minister, or the dewan, is believed to have developed a lecherous eye for the chief’s daughter; it is said the Paliwal women were in general stunningly beautiful. He may even have imposed unreasonable taxes on them. With pride and honour overruling all worldly interests, the chiefs of the 84 villages decided to go away in a single night with whatever they could carry with them.
Where are the Paliwals now? Scattered all over the world. And generally doing well going by their genetic lineage. It is said they even left a curse on the villages, bringing death and suffering to anyone who tried to live in these villages. For the Paliwals, this was not the first migration. Before Kuldhara, according to some accounts, they had left Pali near Jodhpur from where they originally came from; it was to escape additional war taxes being imposed by the king.
Looks like the royalty of Rajasthan had made an art of killing the geese that laid golden eggs for them.

Images of Paliwal Homes at Kuldhara and Pali near Jodhpur from where Paliwals originally came from




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